Nix

Nix

Definitely don't nix Nix from the restaurant list you keep in your notes app on your phone because of my next four words, it's a vegetarian restaurant. I'm the first to say that I was underwhelmed by the thought of visiting and I am happy to report that I was hands down entirely wrong to be. My mind was blown. Not once did I feel like I was eating a vegetarian meal—nope, no tofu or seitan dishes here! Ugh, and no vegetables pretending to be meat—if I wanted meat, I'd order meat.

Sitting at one of their rounded booths, my girlfriend and I indulged in several of Michelin starred Chef John Fraser’s dishes.

“He created the menu based on how he likes to eat”—James Truman, owner

Each dish was created in such a way that it emphasized the unique characteristics of the fruit or vegetable it was built around. The second my fork pierced through the ribbon of jicama and I lifted it expecting a pad see ew-esque piece and discovering that the whole dish was made up of one huge never ending ribbon, I knew I was in for a true dining experience. Entirely different from the fresh, crisp jicama dish with great punches of blood orange—literally the first time I had jicama in a dish where it didn't feel like a desperate ingredient—both the thick creamy Shiitake “Cacio e Pepe” and the crispy Cauliflower Tempura served with its perfectly gooey sticky buns took me to such a gluttonous place that in one moment the dishes were full and in the blink of an eye, entirely empty. After the first bite, I knew I'd demolish it all, I just didn’t think I would eat it as though I had never encountered food before or ever see it again.

For the very first time, I left a vegetarian restaurant feeling like I had not only eaten gluttonously but I had been excited by every flavorfully dynamic mouthful.


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